It is that time of year, again, when we make promises to review the cellar, weed out the excess, put plans in place to ensure we add top wines from great vintages for future enjoyment and perhaps, most importantly, identify some bottles to enjoy.
And what better reason to enjoy something special than to celebrate an anniversary or major birthday.
Magnum of Mumm vintage champagne
Weeding out the unwanted is entirely a task for everyone. You may want a cellar with nothing but great Burgundy, or perhaps prestige champagne, blockbuster Barossa. If so, go for your life.
You may want a cellar full of Sauvignon Blanc, in which case you are in the wrong place here. But each to their own and it really is worth giving the contents of your cellar a regular check.
Bottles are better drunk too soon than too late and you’ll find things hidden away you’ve forgotten.
Space will be occupied by styles and bottles in which you no longer have any interest. Ship them to auction, share them with family and friends, or perhaps a big party.
That leaves us with what you should consider buying, but for now, what about those special bottles. Every year throws up anniversaries, birthdays, and all manner of events to be celebrated.
So, let’s look at what you might enjoy from ten years, as well as 18, 21, 30, 40 and 50 years. There are obviously many other options, but this should give you some ideas.
Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2015 champagne
2015 – Celebrating a ten-year anniversary will provide many choices. Champagne is an obvious one because there are plenty of fine 2015 champagnes still available – most of the wines and vintages recommended will require chasing through auction houses or specialized retailers (or begging friends with great cellars – or of course, dipping into your own), but not so much these.
2015 is not considered an all-time great vintage for champagne, but there are many very fine bottles from it.
Bordeaux and Burgundy both had great years, though these days finding top Burgundy from a top year like 2015 will require a serious financial commitment.
2015 in Piedmont and Tuscany may have been overshadowed by the sensational 2016s, but there were many brilliant wines from those regions as well. Those districts alone will give so many options.
In addition, the Rhone, Sauternes, Alsace, and large parts of the New World had fine vintages as well (some seriously scintillating wines from the Rhone, especially the South).
California saw more burly and bolder than usual wines (a gross generalization, of course). Slightly left field, lovers of dry Riesling should consider examples from Australia’s Clare and Eden Valleys – both made stunning wines that still have years of life ahead (and they are still amazing value).
2007 – I have included 2007 for those celebrating their 18th birthday this year – possibly bigger in some places than others, but happy birthday to all eighteen-year-olds.
2007 is a curious vintage, often dismissed as okay, but rarely outstanding. That is harsh, at least for some regions.
2007 in Champagne has been largely ignored, coming after fine years like 2000, 2002, 2004, and 2006, but largely because 2008 swamped all – it is truly one of the all-time great vintages, so 2007 was quickly forgotten.
What so many seem to ignore is that 2007 was a really good year for Chardonnay-based wines in the region, so blanc de blancs releases tended to box well above their weight. If you see any, don’t hesitate.
The big names – Bordeaux and Burgundy – were well short of their best. The Rhone, on the other hand, is definitely worth a look, at least for the best from Hermitage, Cote Rotie, and even Chateauneuf du Pape.
Sauternes and the Loire both shone – those wishing to celebrate this year in the future could do worse than slip a case of a top Sauternes into the cellar.
Money no object? Californian 2007 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon
There are, however, two regions which had brilliant years – California and the Douro. 2007 is a must have for all fans of vintage port, and while they are already enjoyable, they have decades to go.
2004 – What better gift for a 21st than a great bottle of wine (okay, possibly a car or a boat, if mater and pater has sufficiently deep pockets)? And what a good year to enjoy a wine of your birth year.
Pommery Cuvée Louise Champagne 2004
Champagne, as usual, is obvious, and 2004 was a great vintage, which should not be all that difficult to find, even today. The best will be peaking and last for some years to come.
Unfortunately, Bordeaux and Burgundy did not enjoy their best years. Bordeaux saw many decent wines but few that really excited. Burgundy was the absolute opposite of the preceding 2003 in every respect but one – the wines from both are average at best.
The two years differed immensely. 2003 was extremely hot and few wines handled it very well. It produced Burgundy for lovers of big Barossa reds (and nothing wrong with that – I have friends who adore the 2003’s for that reason – actually, it is wrong and a shame), but forget elegance and subtlety.
2004 was a much cooler year and most of the wines are a little thin and often with a green streak. The very best avoided this but we really are talking only a handful at the very pinnacle.
Spain did very well, as did Italy. 2004 Piedmont are thrilling wines, still drinking magnificently. 2004 was also very good in many parts of Australia and the wines are still superb.
1995– If you are celebrating a 30th anniversary or birthday this year, your friends will be envious. Kick off with a brilliant champagne – the vintage gave us so many, although it was overshadowed by the legendary 1996’s which followed.
Pommery Champagne Cuvee Louise 1995
That said, don’t be afraid to jump into the ’95s, they are very much underrated. But don’t stop there. Both Bordeaux and Burgundy enjoyed absolutely stellar years. Well-cellared examples, essential especially at this age, are going to thrill.
California also had a great year, as did Spain and Germany. Tuscany probably did a bit better than Piedmont but with both, you’d want only the best, well-cellared. Don’t go near vintage port.
1985 – Your fortieth? Lucky you! Pretty much stellar everywhere. Champagne was a small vintage, dominated by cracking Pinot Noir-focused wines. Pol Roger, Bollinger, Krug and many others were brilliant. If you can find any, well-cellared, don’t hesitate.
As good as Bordeaux was (and undoubtedly still is), Burgundy was even more exciting. This is one of the region’s greatest years. Spain, California, and Alsace all gave us some excellent wines.
Italian Sassicaia 1985
But Italy is perhaps the standout, both Piedmont and Tuscany – the Sassicaia 1985 is considered one of the greatest wines made anywhere in the world last century.
To round off things, 1985 was also a superb year for vintage port and they are drinking wonderfully well.
1975 – Superb champagne year, though good cellaring is now essential and they could be a bit of a lottery. Be in no rush to pay serious money for either Burgundy or Bordeaux.
Italy had some fine offerings, but at this stage, as they say in the classics, you pay your money and you take your chances. There were several vintage ports released, though no one seems certain why.
And beyond –
1965 is problematic in most places around the globe, although you might try your luck with some of the better Italians, if you can find them.
Lindeman’s 1965 vintage Hunter River Twin Bins 3110 and 3100
The one exception, though they are so rarely available these days, is a pair of Hunter Valley reds made by Lindeman’s, the famous Bin Twins, Hunter River Burgundies as they were then called, which many have suggested are the finest wines ever made in Australia.
That is one of those late-night debate topics, but they are unquestionably sensational wines (and sensationally priced these days).
1955 gave us a legendary Yquem, while Bordeaux was better than solid, but the stars today (Yquem aside) are the vintage ports, should you be so fortunate to encounter any.
1945 Chateau d’Yquem
Finally, 1945 for anyone enjoying their 80th birthday. It is one of the all-time legendary vintages with Bordeaux, Sauternes, Champagne, the Loire and Burgundy all amazing. Some of the greatest Rhone I have ever seen have been from this vintage.
The vintage ports are other-worldly. Most wines from this vintage are a bit of a lottery today but if you get lucky, let the joy be unstrained.
As for what you should be buying to fill the gaps, next time.
You might also enjoy:
Non-Vintage Champagnes: They are Getting Better and Better!
Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle Champagne:, House Heritage and Tasting Notes
In Praise Of Anchovies: If You Don’t Already Love Them, You Just Haven’t Yet Discovered How Good They Can Be
Primer On The Most Divisive Of All Wines: Sherry